Note: While authors are asked to place warnings on their stories for some moderated content, everyone has different thresholds, and it is your responsibility as a reader to avoid stories or stop reading if something bothers you.
Second Sight: Remembering Some San Francisco Neighborhoods - 5. v. Castro
.
v.
Castro
Now as I indulge in strolling up to
A parting glance of personal recall,
The Castro of yesteryear needs loom large,
For living next to it made it all mine
In ways weekend visitors could not claim.
And although some plant color could be found
In planter beds carved out of the sidewalks
– Less than its Duboce Triangle neighbor –
Castro hosted an urban oasis
In the guise of a well-seeded plant shop.
For among clothes and gift stores, and the clubs,
A pair of glass-fronted storefronts offered
Green’ry twix Nineteenth and Twentieth Streets.
First opened in the 1970s,
When everybody needed indoor plants
And a home was not a home without them,
The interior of the store featured
Every variety people could want –
From petals of magenta cyclamen,
Reaching towards the ceiling as they do
With a familiar sight, to exotic
Madagascar dragon trees like wee palms,
Content to live their lives in potted bliss,
Long as they’re safe and warm behind closed doors.
Color abounded in these plant-shop rooms,
And as you meandered from space to space,
You’d be rewarded as if wand’ring through
The best-kept of botanical gardens:
Sherbet-orange Calathea crocata;
Inextricably peach-pink Ixora;
Mauve swagger for days from Gloxinia;
The blood-red crimson of Anthurium
Pitted against the pearly white basins
Of the Peace lily, so like a mini
California Calla lily indoors.
But, for all of their heated indoor space,
It was this shop’s retreat of a back yard
That pulled me back like a magnet each time.
An erected fieldstone grotto hoisted
A cascading fountain in one corner –
In the pool below, goldfish and minnows
Played fast and furious with life because
Any night could bring an urban racoon
To eat up those too slow to find a place
Between rocks where no paws could gain access.
Paths laid out back here, in this manmade land,
Would beg for a stroll to see all the plants
Available for transport to one’s yard.
Although a neighborhood with scant parkland,
Many back gardens were lush in wet times;
Times that changed as the climate has dried out,
And my last visit to this plant shop’s lair
Proved to be a sad sight, as nothing thrived
The way it still does in my memory. [i]
Yet that same calm in the eye of a storm
Could be found in a special, corner bar.
Just in the news a pair of weeks ago,
“Harvey’s” closed its doors rather suddenly,
A slow-motion victim of pandemic
Changes to the way people drink and eat.
That being said, to me that corner will
Always be home to the Elephant Walk,
The business Harvey’s took o’er and renamed
In honor of Gay Rights champion, Milk,
Martyred by a bigot set free by peers
– white and straight, and hate-filled against Gay folks –
As the murdering villain Dan White was.
But, Elephant Walk proved its own retreat,
For in fair weather, rolling glass windows
Opened up bar-height-counter seating where
Patrons could hail or chat with passers-by
In the warmest and friendliest of ways.
As a shared, low pressure Community
Hangout spot, equally inviting for
An afternoon cup of coffee and scone,
As a post-club “chaser” before parting
From groups of friends – or a special someone
Invited home to keep the party up,
Though it be on a one to one basis.
Yes, Elephant Walk is gone, and so too
Its successor, with people hopeful for
The next Harvey’s to re-open its doors.
And this is not the work for me to do
Justice to the clubs I favored the most,
So the Pendulum and the Midnight Sun,
And now and then, a draft beer at Moby’s,
Will have to wait, for each is deserving
Of a separate treatment all on their own.
But thoughts of “the old times” puts me in mind
Of how I was there to experience
The last entrenchment of old-neighborhood
“Eureka Valley” folks moving away.
For across from the movie theater,
A mid-sized supermarket was in trade
Between restaurants and Community bars.
I found out quick, ‘my type’ was not welcome,
For this fading bastion of grocery store
Resisted the times and only sold to
“The right kind,” who did not live in Castro,
And never would until they moved on out
To their suburban-Peninsula drab,
Conformity and dull hegemony. [ii]
That store, with its nearly empty displays,
Gave off the vibe of eyes always on me,
Lest I haul off and do something ‘queer’ there,
In the Hostess Twinkie aisle where Dan shopped. [iii]
But rather than think of such dead-end joints,
I do better to recall the restaurants,
Like the quaint German place on Market Street.
Run by a likewise quaint older woman,
Prob’bly come to San Francisco post-war,
She slung her red-cabbage sauerbraten
Half-sloshed, and seemed to live for the bar folks
Who bought her shots, and doubtlessly talked of
The good old days either here or abroad.
She showed no animosity to Gays,
And with easy recall, I still can see
A dinner spent there, where seated nearby,
A male, cross-generational couple
Enjoyed what I took to be an outing
To a romantic, tourist getaway.
The “Daddy” seemed sheltering, protective;
While his strapping blond lad, loving and shy.
I can yet conjure the way this young man
Gripped his paper beer-coaster afterwards
As they rose from their table to exit.
I imagine when back in Iowa,
Or Idaho – I don’t know – this coaster
Served as treasured memento of a meal
Spent in the warm glow of the man he loved;
Spent in our exotic San Francisco.
And exotic seem the holidays here
In the retrospection of innocence.
Halloween would close off a dozen blocks,
And thousands came outside to spend all night
In blameless, harmlessly Queer partying –
But that was before Gops made mass murder
A thing in America, and whites came
To hunt ‘the queers’ to death on Market Street. [iv]
But, similar al fresco parties were
Had on Pink Saturday – the night before
The Pride March commenced on Sunday morning
Last day of June to venerate Stonewall.
And in autumn, always the hottest time
In this climate zone, the Castro Street Fair
Offered booths of activism, food, plus
Artistry made by Community hands.
Sometimes, wild, impromptu street performance
Would erupt in closed-off intersections,
With one playing guitar or percussion,
And others dancing clothed, half-clothed or nude.
Sadly, such sights are now things of the past,
Because the new-come, newly rich het folks
Pushing baby strollers round the Castro
Close down all free expression over their
Dread, suburban sense of “safety concerns.”
But, nevertheless, they can’t take from me
The wonderful holidays I spent there,
‘Cause this was home, and after Halloween,
Thanksgiving would mean time with treasured friends,
And then, the preparations for Christmas
Would equal far-greater celebrating,
While hosting responsibilities meant
Trips to another venerable shop –
Cliff’s Variety, old-style hardware store
With a little bit of everything home
A person could ever possibly need.
Here I met that brusque blond of a Texan
Who cruised, manned and worked the cash register.
The bruising charmer first had a good laugh
At my Dickies overalls and Jack Purcells,
But wound up slipping his own phone number
In my front pocket with his very hand –
Yes, Texas can grow some mighty sweet things.
Our cabinets still hold glassware bought here,
And of the dinnerware coming from there,
One terracotta bowl survives hard use.
Cliff’s was also home to old-school products,
And from its shelves I discovered the joys
Of Bon-Ami in its original
“Cakes” – like hefty bars of soap – and ideal
For every thinkable household cleaning.
Also, I first encountered Kruckenberg’s
Gourmet Wood Cleaner, white ring remover –
Another ‘obsolete’ but valuable
Sunday cleaning tool from the shelves of Cliff’s.
Their holiday décor’s admirable,
And Beistle “flats,” or high quality trees
– Like the one I bought and set up yearly
In the kitchen for our “personal” things –
Are found there to this day, I’m pleased to say.
What’s not there is a favored place to eat,
For after shopping – and cruising – at Cliff’s,
It was fun to window-shop the next block,
And pop in the place called “The Patio,”
For here, the whole restaurant was out of doors,
And chilly weather dining was made warm
By mushroom-capped space heaters round about.
But on sunny days, what’s better than brunch? –
And the Patio’s menu featured treats
Like Eggs Florentine – with its cooked spinach –
Mimosa – orange juice and champagne, or then
Peach Bellini – peach juice with the bubbly.
On the menu, they had an eccentric
Way to spell e-t-c. that few recall,
But their “& cetera”s still clear as day.
And on this menu lived old-time favorites,
And hearty fare too, to stick to the ribs,
Such as chicken-fried steak, or thick biscuits
With sausage cream gravy poured all on top.
Are there any places in the city
Still serving such delectable bathos
With what they offer for brunch anymore? –
Somehow, I’m inclined to truly doubt it.
Then full and half-buzzed, we’d mosey over
To the charity shop organized by
The Names Project to support its funding.
“Under One Roof” received new merchandise
From certain, friendly companies to sell,
While all proceeds supported charity.
At Christmas, they used to pack the alley
Running alongside the store front to back
With lit Christmas trees full of ornaments.
Baskets full of those ready to be bought
Crowded the bases of these twinkling trees.
I can almost smell the merrymaking
Holiday glitter on my fingertips.
And, as said, mention of a personal
Tree we set in the kitchen each season,
Has many ornaments hanging right there
That are the selfsame we bought from this store
All those long, many years ago – coming
From Under One roof – which shows the reason
They continue to mean so much to us.
And I’m old enough to remember when
This store was on Market Street, right next door
To the sewing studio of the Names
Project itself – the memorial quilt
Stored in boxes up on the mezzanine,
While volunteers worked the long, thankless hours
To assemble the increasing patches
With people’s lives taken by HIV.
Like the cyclamen, or Gloxinia,
Bright colors are in the embroidery
Which no amount of denial, or time
Shall bleach or wither away to nothing.
For I remember them, and will never
Let such memories fade from my being.
~
Mine Forever
What are neighborhoods in our mind if not
Stage sets where we’ve arranged places
To people in our memories as times
Sunnier with smiling faces? —
Where the grass of parks seems greener for our
Dogs to carefree rove o’er the range
While we’d watch, never giving thought to how
All of our tomorrows could change.
For the alterations may be little
And S. F. spared much urban blight,
Those places gone are ever mine to sing
About in sorrow or delight.
In such humor, I’ve raised my pen and freed
My mind to do its recalling,
Knowing these to be but personal thoughts
Unashamed, though quaint and sprawling.
[i] I was finally able to find a picture of Hortica’s back garden, before drought conditions curtailed it drastically. While only the front rim of the water feature is visible here (just behind the fern tree), the image gives a good idea of how much of an oasis this business seemed in a cramped neighborhood.
[ii] Eureka Valley was a large, traditionally Catholic neighborhood, whose central shopping district ran on Castro Street from Market to 19th Street. In the late 1960s, Gay men and women – mostly those in stable partnerships – sought out the relative safety this area provided, and moved here from the Upper Haight, with its crime and drug addiction. They focused on the cheaper housing adjacent to the commercial zone. By the opening years of the 1970s, more LGBTI2S+ people, mostly younger transplants to the city, relocated from the grittier, traditional Gay neighborhood centered on Polk Street (in the Tenderloin), and also focused on the blocks surrounding the Castro commercial district. Thus, in short order, Community claimed these several blocks as their own neighborhood enclave, The Castro, and incensed old-guard residents who made a of point of distinguishing themselves as not ‘queer,’ insisting they still lived in “Eureka Valley.”
Today, most real estate maps show Castro as an island neighborhood in the larger field of Eureka Valley.
[iii] Dan White’s slap-on-the-wrist ‘conviction’ for manslaughter – this being for his carefully planned, premeditated double murder of Supervisor Milk and Mayor Moscone, in San Francisco City Hall, in broad daylight – was aided by the “Twinkie Defense.” This laughable argument stated ex-cop White couldn’t help himself, and just had to murder the out man and his advocate, because 'H-words' disgusted him, and junk food made him do it. However, as flimsy as this rationale was, it was all the white, anti-gay jury needed to save “a good boy like Dan” from a life-in-prison conviction, handing down a seven-year sentence instead.
This bastard’s getting away with murder, because, let’s face it, in this country, Gay Lives Do Not Matter – never have; never will – caused the Castro to erupt in anti-cop riots, which pushed past them, marched down Market Street and sacked the site of Milk and Moscone’s martyrdom for Gay Rights. This was on the night of May 21st, 1979.
White was set free after less than five years of incarceration.
[iv] The outsider violence started in 2002, when five members of the LGBTI2S+ Community were stabbed during Castro’s Halloween street-party. In 2006, nine people were shot. In typical punish-the-victim bigotry, the San Francisco Police Department refused to better monitor outsiders coming to the neighborhood event, and instead, permanently revoked organizers’ permits to hold the party in the first place.
_
- 4
Note: While authors are asked to place warnings on their stories for some moderated content, everyone has different thresholds, and it is your responsibility as a reader to avoid stories or stop reading if something bothers you.
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