Bound & Bound – the Curse and the Captives – - 41. Appendices

Bound & Bound

– the Curse and the Captives –

Appendices

Bound & Bound Chapter 12 Appendix:

This chapter is where we first encounter some private attitudes concerning Gay people in medieval societies. Far from thinking that the attitudes expressed by these fictional characters are 'modern,' I must warn readers that much of our cultural understanding is distorted through the lens of Victorian and hypocritical notions left over from the 20^th century. Notions which had only one aim in mind – to refute the basic reality that Gay people even existed in the past, much less lived relatively open and happy lives in partnerships with one another. Unfortunately, that attitude still biases even some of the best-intentioned LGBT individuals with open minds today. There is a lot of damage to undo when it comes to how Gay people see Gay people, past, present and future.

In light of that issue, I have been able to provide some first-hand history for us to consider.

1) Attitudes to Gay people in Europe during the Middle Ages –

In my research I found this, which I will hope you find interesting. Even anti-gay feelings in Europe were 'new' at some point, and attitudes were consistently even and uncaring during medieval times.

In his anthology of Gay verse (1983), the well-respected historian Stephen Coote provides the following facts and comments:

"Ausonius wrote his lovely sixty-second epigram, and the man who inspired that love, Saint Paulinus of Nola, wrote him the poem on page 111. And indeed for the next 800 years the clerics' attitude towards same-sex relations was distinctly positive. Alcuin, light of the court of Charlemagne, wrote poems of strong Gay sentiment to his pupils whom he knew by such pet names as 'Cuckoo.' In a letter to an absent bishop he fantasized about flying to cover him with passionate kisses. For Gay people at least, the Dark Ages were not pitch-black.

"In fact from the tenth through the twelfth centuries there was a major flowering of European Gay subculture. While the Troubadours (including at least one lesbian one) sang Gay love songs in the courts of Provence, actual love in monasteries became the cornerstone of theology. There are love letters to males among the correspondence of Anselm, and it was he who prevented the first anti-gay legislation being passed in England. He became Archbishop of Canterbury and a saint. Another saint and Englishman, Aeldred of Rievaulx, made Gay love the basis of monastic life. While he did not wholly approve of such relationships being genital, he did not forbid them from being so because 'such great joy is experienced' in them. It was he who wrote of Christ and Saint John that 'the closer they were, the more copiously did the fragrant secrets of the heavenly marriage impart the sweet smell of spiritual chrism to their love.'

"This was a world in which hunting was a more serious sin that same-sex sexual relations for clerics. In fact, some elements in the Council of London of 1102 had to fight to make 'sodomy' a sin worthy of mandatory confession, because the public was not aware that it was a 'sin' at all. This was the edict that Anselm quashed, declaring rather oddly for an archbishop, that it was so widespread that nobody was embarrassed by it anyway. This argues a strong indifference to the existence and integration of Gay people within the larger community."

Later on, here is his one fleeting – but tantalizing – reference to Islamic culture of the Middle Ages:

"Turks and other Moslems lived in open same-sex marriages (and that Moorish Gay poetry of the Middle Ages was exquisite is illustrated by the two examples include here)."[1]

2) Attitudes to Gay people in Muslim countries during the Middle Ages –

Ottoman Turks had (and modern Turks continue to have) a well-known nonplused attitude towards same-sex partnering. This was part of the general acceptance – and indeed, general celebration – of same-sex love made manifest through centuries of Islamic culture everywhere the religion flourished. One of the greatest History scholars of the 20^th century, John Boswell, spoke eloquently about this topic in his 1980 book on Christianity, social tolerance and Gay people. His work covers a broad sweep of time from the start of the new religion's legalization in Rome, until the 14^th century. Here are some of the facts and comments he has to relay:

"Most Muslim cultures have treated same-sex love with indifference, if not admiration. Almost without exception the classic works of Arabic poetry and prose, from Abu Nuwas to the Thousand and One Nights, treat Gay people and their orientation with respect or casual acceptance. For example, poems about the physical allure of a young man's first beard constitute an entire genre of Arabic poetry.

"In early medieval Spain this tendency was accentuated; erotic verse about same-sex relationships constitutes the bulk of all published Hispano-Arab poetry. Such verses were written by every sort of person of every rank. Kings wrote love poems to or about their male subjects and received erotic poetry in return. When al-Mutamid, eleventh-century king of Seville, wrote of his page that "I made him my slave, but the coyness of his glance has made me his captor," he was expressing a feeling with which his subjects could not only empathize but about which they themselves probably composed or recited similar verse.

"Earlier in the century the kingdom of Valencia had been ruled by a pair of former slaves who had fallen in love and risen together through the ranks of the civil service until they were in a position to rule by themselves. The joint rule of Mubarak and Mudhaffar was characterized by Muslim historians as a relationship of complete trust and mutual devotion, without any trace of competition or jealousy, and their love for each other was celebrated all over Spain.

"Spanish sources do not suggest that Christian men and youth drew the line at physical contact with Muslims. Many Muslims had Christian partners. Al-Mutamin, the eleventh-century king of Saragossa, was in love with his Christian page; and ar-Ramadi, one of the most outstanding poets of the tenth century, not only began to wear the distinctive clothing of the Christian minority when he fell in love with a Christian youth but was even converted to Christianity, embracing his partner in front of the priest after the ceremony."[2]

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Bound & Bound Chapter 18 Appendix:

In this chapter we meet the castle's cook, Il Signor Massimo Gelli, Maestro di Cucina, and get a glimpse of his daily battles to serve his lord and guests a worthy state dinner. Some medieval cooks were regarded as nobility in the knight-errant world of chivalrous adventure. In the 14^th century, the French king's chef, Taillevent, was raised to nobility and given a large estate; he was subsequently buried like a knight, and had his effigy carved in stone wearing full armor and with a sword by his side. His family crest bears three cooking pots across the center.[3]

As this was the height of the Hundred Years War, the English king was not to be undone, and his chefs compiled a collection of recipes that showcased all the best food his kitchens could produce.

Thus two 'warring' cookbooks arose – Le Viandier by Taillevent, and the Forme of Cury promulgated by Richard III in the 1390s. The Forme is a fascinating book, and shows that English nobility at the time were just as likely to eat fine Italian food as French cuisine. This cookbook contains the world's oldest, bona fide pasta recipes – including a flawless rendition of cheese-stuffed ravioli. These two books had enormous influence on cooking for several centuries.[4]

1) Kitchen image links:

As it may be a bit difficult to 'see' Maestro Gelli's work environment, I have provided some images of authentic medieval kitchens.

The Sintra Palace, in Sintra Portugal, is a remarkable structure. The kitchen was built by an English kitchen master in the 1300s, and is arguably the best preserved medieval kitchen anywhere in Europe.

Here is a general shot of part of the overall kitchen:

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=https://tapastourdujour.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/sintra1.gif&imgrefurl=https://tapastourdujour.wordpress.com/&h=1734&w=1306&tbnid=184gehHVVe2yjM:&zoom=1&docid=IcJ1vDKAUzw0wM&ei=favXVKXFBYSeyATx34Ag&tbm=isch&ved=0CB4QMygCMAI

Here's another general shot, showing quite well that 'the kitchen' is really an expansive suite of rooms where 'cold functions' and 'hot functions' could be separated.

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.cross-pollinate.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/IMG_4809.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.cross-pollinate.com/blog/2137/sintra-a-lisbon-daytrip-fit-for-a-king/&h=1200&w=1600&tbnid=X_VGvb2e54FCVM:&zoom=1&docid=kNThixIEW7Q57M&ei=favXVKXFBYSeyATx34Ag&tbm=isch&ved=0CEEQMygaMBo

Here are two shots showing the line of ranges. The small openings in the sides of the wall below the cooking surface would be heaped with hot coals.

http://www.letitbefood.com/uploads/1/5/9/5/15950970/9323521_orig.jpg

http://www.shutterstock.com/pic-125785391/stock-photo-portugal-sintra-sintra-medieval-royal-palace-palacio-nacional-de-sintra-view-of-the-kitchen.html?src=ICx77wnbAax2fCVjNDgfxQ-1-10

Bartolomeo Scappi, chef to the Pope, published a fantastically well-illustrated and detailed cookbook in 1570. Here is one of the kitchen illustration from his Opera. We can see the spit-jack boy turning the roast from behind his barricade; we can also see the line of ranges on the right hand wall, and the sink on the left with running water.

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http%3A%2F%2Fmembers.tripod.com%2Fmed_food%2Fequip3.gif&imgrefurl=http%3A%2F%2Fmembers.tripod.com%2Fmed_food%2Fkitchen.html&h=2305&w=1675&tbnid=yTx_XM3rsd3LVM%3A&zoom=1&docid=5ZUskIXQtg372M&ei=ZVt2VPXXHsPHsQTEgIHICA&tbm=isch&ved=0CEkQMygdMB0&iact=rc&uact=3&dur=1613&page=2&start=20&ndsp=21

2) The Menu:

Here is the menu that Maestro Gelli prepared for that ordinary spring day's dinner. The recipes follow.

1) Roast beef

2) Cardoons prepared in bianco speciale per legume

3) Pie of ragu of minced game and mushrooms

4) Parsnip Ryalle for

5) Sturgeon steaks poached in beer

6) Parti-coloured blanc-mangers in layers of green, red and white

7) Leche Lumbarde

8) Omelet: savory, civé of shallots, chopped veal and chicken livers

9) Omelet: sweet, quince conserves

3) The Recipes:

No. 1 – Roast Beef

– If you have a rotisserie, use that. If using the oven, preheat it to 450°F.

– Season a Prime Rib Roast with Salt and Pepper. Note the weight of the piece, as this will be your guide for how long to roast.

– If using a rotisserie, skewer through the center and begin roasting.

– If using an oven, place the Prime Rib in a roasting pan and place in the oven for 10 mins. Take out and flip to brown the other side. In another 10 mins, turn the heat down to 375°F.

With both methods of cooking, leave to cook undisturbed for half an hour. In the meantime prepare the finishing glaze by dissolving

– 4 tablespoons Honey in

– 2 teaspoons Marsala Wine. Also prepare a piece of parchment and tin foil to cover the meat.

– After the 30 mins, spread the glaze evenly all over the meat and continue cooking with the cover on the meat.

– For the oven, roast approximately 10 mins. per pound; for the rotisserie, approximately 8 mins. per pound.

– Use a meat thermometer to test for the level of doneness you wish to serve your guests: 140° for Rare; 160° for Medium; 180° for Well Done.

– Let the cooked roast rest for about 20 mins. before serving to retain the moisture.

No. 2 – Cardoons Prepped in Bianco Speciale per Legume[5]

– To prepare the Bianco Speciale per Legume, place

– 4 Salted Anchovy Fillets on a chopping board.

– Toss over them 2 tablespoons of Flour, and chop finely. Scrape into a large pan, and stir in

– 4 cups of Cold Water and

– 3 tablespoons White Wine Vinegar.

– Set on a low heat, and stir while it comes to near a boil. Taste for seasonings, and add Salt if needed. Turn heat to low and keep the pan on the flame while you prepare the Cardoons.

– Take 2lbs. of fresh Cardoons and separate the ribs. Cut off the green leaves, if any remain, and if the outer skin of the stalks seems tough and fibrous, cut away the stringy material as you would with celery.

– Slice the Cardoons into 1/4-inch slices and place directly in the Bianco Speciale per Legume. Once everything is in there, raise the heat and simmer while stirring for about 3 mins.

– Drain well in a colander.

– To cook right before serving, heat a frying pan over a medium-high heat. When hot, toss in

– 3 tablespoons Olive Oil, and

– 3 tablespoons Butter.

– When the oil is hot and simmering at the edges of the pan, toss in the par-cooked Cardoons and fry for 4 to 5 mins, or until tender and toasty brown. Taste and season with Salt and Pepper.

– To serve, place in the serving bowl and grate some Pecorino Romano cheese over the top. Send to the table piping warm.

No. 3 – Pie of Ragu of Minced Game and Mushrooms

– Make the hot-water pastry first. Heat

– 3 tablespoons butter,

– 2 tablespoons lard,

– 3 tablespoons half-and-half, and

– 2 tablespoons Water in a saucepan over low heat until all is melted and smooth. Pour into a bowl containing

– 2 1/2 cups flour, and

– 1/4 teaspoon Sea Salt. Mix hard with a wooden spoon until a stiff dough can be gathered together. Turn out onto a floured board, and knead gently until it just comes together, about 30 seconds. Place the dough back in the bowl, drape with a towel, and chill for 20 mins.

– Ready a half-quart Pâté en Croûte mold, either oval or rectangular, by generously buttering the inside of it. (Alternately, you may use a high-sided 6-inch cake pan.) After the pastry is rested, cut off one third and set back to chill. Roll the rest of the pastry to about a 10-inch round. Drape the pastry in the bottom and sides of the mold, and leave about a 1-inch overhang along the top rim. Chill in the refrigerator while roll the reserved third into a round about 1/ 8-inch thick. Chill this also while you prepare the Ragu.

– Mince into fine cubes about

– 2lbs. raw Venison and

– 1/2 lb. Duck meat. Set aside. Chop

– 4lbs. of Creminni Mushrooms, and

– 2 Yellow Onions into a chunky dice. Heat a heavy skillet over medium-high heat. When hot drizzle in

– 6 tablespoons Olive Oil. Toss in the Onions and fry until transparent, approximately 3 to 4 mins. Add the Mushrooms and cook until they are golden, then add the meat and toss well. Stir and cook for about 10 mins., adjusting the heat lower if thinks look to be cooking too fast. Set the filling aside to cool while you prepare for the assembly and final cooking.

– Preheat the oven to 375°F. Take out the pastry from the refrigerator, and set the lined mold on a baking sheet. Break

– 1 Egg in a small bowl. Beat with

– 1 tablespoon Half-and-Half, and set aside.

– Taste the Ragu and adjust the seasonings with Salt and Pepper. Also add

– 1 teaspoon ground Cinnamon and Cardamom.

– Fill the mold with the Ragu. Moisten the overhanging pastry with some of the Egg and Cream mixture, then gently lift on the top crust. Gently press the seams together and use a pair of scissors to trim off the excess. Decorate the edge with the tines of a fork by pressing a pattern onto the joined seams.

– Brush the exposed pastry with the remainder of the Egg and Cream mixture, then use a sharp knife to cut two steam vents.

– Place in the center of the oven and bake for 1 hour.

– Let cool on a rack for several hours after it is cooked, then chill tightly covered in plastic wrap overnight.

– To serve, carefully unmold on a chilled serving platter, garnish with Sprigs of Watercress and eat while still cold.

No. 4 – Parsnip Ryalle[6]

– Preheat oven to 325°F.

– Generously butter six individually sized soufflé dishes and set on a baking tray.

– Peel and slice about 1/2 lb. of Parsnip. Put in an oven-safe glass bowl with – 1 tablespoon of Water and microwave until soft and mashable, approximately 4 mins.

– Separate 4 Eggs, and beat the whites to soft peaks.

– After the Parsnip is cooked, but in the bowl of a food processor with

– 1/2 cup chopped Almonds, and pulse grind to a chunky paste. Scrape down the sides of the bowl, and add:

– 2 Egg Yolks,

– 1/4 cup Panko (the stale crumbs from a white loaf),

– 1 tablespoon Dry White Wine (or Beer),

– 1/4 teaspoon Sea Salt,

– A small pinch of Cinnamon, and

– A small pinch of Brown Sugar. Blend all together until smooth and even. Fold this mixture gently into the beaten Egg Whites, and pour into the soufflé dishes.

– Bake for about 20 mins, or until slightly golden and firm to the touch.

– Serve warm with the Sturgeon Steaks.

No. 5 – Sturgeon Steaks Poached in Beer

– Mince 1 Yellow Onion and

– 3 cloves of Garlic.

– Heat a heavy-bottomed lidded pan over a medium-high heat. When hot, drizzle in

– 4 tablespoons Olive Oil. Add the Onion and Garlic and fry stirring occasionally until golden brown. While this is cooking, prepare

– 6 Sturgeon Steaks, which should be about 1 1/2 –inch thick, by tucking the flaps of the belly skin into the divot to make a neat round. Tie each round firmly with kitchen twine to retain the shape while poaching.

– Once the Onion and Garlic are toasty brown, toss over them

– 1 teaspoon Flour. Stir and cook for 2 mins to cook out the raw flour taste. Place your Sturgeon Steaks in the pan to that the sides do not crowd one another, and raise the heat to high. Open and pour in

– 1 bottle of brown Belgian Ale. Bring to a very slow simmer and immediately turn the heat to low and cover the pan.

– Let poach undisturbed for 10 mins., and then take the pan off the heat. Let the poached Steaks rest for additional 10 mins. before you use a slotted spoon, remove them, and let them drain on a metal rack.

– Return the poaching liquid to a high heat and bring to a rapid boil. Let reduce until only about 1 cup remains. Taste the sauce for seasonings, adding Salt and Pepper if needed, and stir in approximately

– 2 tablespoons Red Wine Vinegar to brighten the flavor of the sauce.

– To serve, place the drained Sturgeon Steaks on warmed plates with the ramekin containing the Parsnip Ryalle. Spoon the sauce over the Steak and send to the table hot.

No. 6 – Parti-Colored Blanc-Mangers in layers of green, red and white

– For a real show, make this recipe three times over, alternating the layers of color so that one has green on the bottom, another green in the middle, and the third has green on top. That way, you may place them in a grouping in the center of the table or sideboard and have a genuine 'Pièce de résistance' to show your guests. If you decide to do this, triple the amounts below and prepare three molds (and the space in your refrigerator) to do them all at once.

– Clean and dry a one quart mold for gelatin, either metal, glass or silicone, and set on a try that fits into your refrigerator.

– To obtain the green coloring, bring a pot of unsalted water to a rapid boil, and toss in

– 1lb. of well-cleaned Spinach. Cook for 4 mins., and then remove the spinach to a colander set in a bowl. When cool enough to handle, squeeze tightly and save all the green liquid in the bowl. Use the spinach for another purpose and strain the liquid through a fine sieve. Set aside.

– To obtain the red coloring, dilute 3 tablespoons of Red Raspberry Preserves in a small bowl with

– 1 tablespoon brandy. Set aside.

– To make the Blanc-Manger, pour

– 3 Cups of Almond Milk into a saucepan. Set over a medium heat and bring to about 190°F on a candy thermometer. In the meantime, mix

– 1 tablespoon granulated Gelatin in a microwave-proof bowl and add

– 1/ 4 Cup cold water. Set aside and let 'bloom' for several mins. Place in the microwave, and cook for 1 min., or until the gelatin melts and is fluid. Stir and set aside.

– Stir the dissolved the Gelatin into the hot Milk until completely mixed in. Turn off the heat and measure out one cup, which place in the bottom of the mold and refrigerate right away. Cover the pot and keep warm while the first layer sets.

– In about 30 mins., check to see that the white layer is solid. If so, take one cup of the warm Almond Milk and Gelatin mixture and stir in the Spinach juice until a pleasant green color is achieved. Pour this on top of the white layer and chill another 30 mins.

– Once the middle layer is set, mix in the Red Current jam to the last of the warm Almond Milk and Gelatin mixture and top off the mold. Wrap the opening tightly with cling warp and chill for several hours. Also chill your serving plate.

– To unmold, pour some warm water into a bowl. Unwrap the plastic from the mold and dip the sides of the mold into the water to loosen it. Only keep it there for 15 seconds, then remove, dry and set the serving plate on top of it. Invert and you should hear the Blanc-Manger plot out.

– Continue to chill until wanted for serving.

No. 7 – Leche Lumbarde[7]

– Coarsely chop 1lb. Pitted Dates the night before, and steep with

– 1 Cup of Marsala Wine overnight at room temperature in a covered saucepan.

– In the morning, set the pan on a medium heat and add,

– 1/4 Cup Raw Sugar (or light Brown Sugar), and

– 1 Additional Cup of Marsala Wine. Cook uncovered 10 mins., then transfer to a food processor. Before grinding to a chunky paste, add,

– 1/2 teaspoon Ground Ginger,

– 3/4 teaspoon Asian Cinnamon (i.e. real cinnamon, and not Mexican Cassia), and a small cracking of fresh

– Black Pepper.

– Pulse grind to a paste and turn out onto a board lightly floured with

– Rice Flour. Kneed until the paste forms into a log that will not stick to the surface anymore. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap, and chill for two hours.

– Prepare the coating by mixing 1 Cup of Panko, with

– 1/2 Cup Raw Sugar.

– Once the log is well chilled, spread the coating mixture on a work surface, and roll the Leche Lumbarde in it to cover it well.

– Chill until ready to serve, and then slice neatly into ¼-inch rounds.

No. 8 – Savory Omelet Filling: Civé of Shallots, Chopped Veal and Chicken Livers

– In the small bowl or a food processor, or in a mortar by hand, grind

– 1/4lb. fresh Chicken Livers with

– 3 tablespoons Marsala Wine, and

– the juice of half a Lemon. Scrape down sides the bowl and continue grinding until a smooth and light-colored paste is obtained, about 15 seconds total. Transfer to a small bowl, cover and refrigerate.

– To make the Civé, slice

– 1lbs. of Shallots into thin pieces.

– Heat a heavy skillet over a medium-high heat. When hot, add

– 3 tablespoons Olive Oil, and

– 3 tablespoons Butter. Toss in the Shallots and fry until golden brown, about 10 mins. Adjust the heat lower so they do not scorch. Add

– 1/2 lb. ground or finely chopped Veal and cook another 5 mins. Turn the heat to low, and stir in

– the reserved Liver paste,

– 1/2 teaspoon Cinnamon, and

– 3 tablespoons Marsala Wine. Bring to a light simmer and adjust for seasonings for Salt and Pepper.

– Pour into a dish and keep warm until you are ready to make your omelet.

No. 9 – Sweet Filling & Making the Omelets: Quince Conserves[8]

– In the small bowl or a food processor, or in a mortar by hand, grind

– 8 ounces of jarred Quince Conserves with

– 3 tablespoons Apple Juice until smooth and light. Pour into a bowl and keep at room temperature while you prepare the omelets.

– To make the Omelets, heat two heavy skillets over medium-high heat. In the meantime, break

– 6 Eggs into two separate bowls (12 total), and beat with a folk, adding

– 1 tablespoon Cream to each bowl.

– When the pans are hot, add to each

– 2 tablespoons Olive Oil, and

– 2 tablespoons Butter. When hot, pour in the beaten Eggs.

– Leave alone for the first 3 mins., and then gently lift one side of the Omelet to allow the raw Egg to slide underneath. Repeat with the other half.

– As soon as the center of the Omelet looks firm, but still slightly undercooked, spoon the Ragu down the center of one of them. Flip one flap of the Omelet over the filling, and then tip the pan towards you and gently lift the main part of the Omelet to seal the seam underneath. Repeat with the Quince Conserves Omelet and let both cook for another min. or two.

– Carefully tilt the pan to slide each Omelet onto a heated serving place, and spoon a bit of the respective fillings down the center so the guests know what is in side each.

– Serve hot.

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