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Second Sight: Remembering Some San Francisco Neighborhoods - 4. iv. Valencia Street
.
iv.
Valencia Street
Though but a block separates the pairing,
There’s always been a piquant difference
Between Mission and Valencia Streets.
And, as the heart of the Mission District,
Mission Street pulsates with businesses geared
To Latin life in a cold, far city;
While Valentia – mixed in many ways –
Was a street unique in its vibrancy.
Though deprived of parks and open spaces,
The residential blocks knitting the two
Were where one could see front gardens bloom,
As all the colors of the Southland grew
Between sidewalks and the houses’ front doors.
Fig trees were not an uncommon sight, nor
Blooming yucca, cacti, or palm trees too.
Bougainvillea would climb to the rooflines,
Their pretty, relatively small white flowers
Set like shimmering opals amongst crimson
Triangular leaves pointing to the sky.
Their red was matched by an unlikely friend,
For a Southern native to Mexico
Thrived here throughout the year, and for many
Years could grow painfully slow, inching up
With bright-red leaves gently turning to green.
Poinsettia, planted by people’s stoops
After Christmases sixty years prior,
Reached upwards for the San Francisco sun.
My first encounter with one left me awed,
But, walking down to BART in the morning [i]
On my way to Oakland and work, I’d find
More houses with ancient poinsettia
In the blocks between Mission and my home.
It makes me queasy now to realize
The first thing real estate agents suggest
Is that all mature plants must be ripped out,
For nothing frightens suburbanites like
Evidence of a home being lived in!
No; no; subservience demands – “If you
Want the BIG money” from Silicon Valley –
“Tear it all up! Put in boring from
The dead-in-a-month hardware store’s
Hothouse, water-hogging, nonnative plants.”
(Second words always involve slapping paint
On brick and masonry features to, quote:
“Spruce things up and make it nice for people.”
That dullards go ahead and do this, ‘cause
Money is money, and history be damned,
Becomes enough to make me grind my teeth,
All while oya and aesthetic brick walls [ii]
Vanish ‘neath coats of plain conformity.)
So, if I’d stroll the same way I used to,
Chances are, those tender spider lilies
With red tentacles lifted to the clouds
To catch the last drop of the morning dew,
And the vibrant, super-slow growing plants
Of treasured Christmases now forgotten,
Are all gone, victims to complacency.
But what’s stored in my memory still blooms,
And with the sights of Valencia Street,
The new-arrived-me was captivated.
It seems but yesterday, my friend David
Took me to the humble hole-in-the-wall,
Palestinian Christian-owned restaurant
With falafel and shawarma on pita
– And mint infused yogurt tahini too –
Served for hand-holding in unadorned
Aluminum foil wrappers, perfect for
Standing by their front door, shooting the breeze
While David and I ate and people-watched.
We had one such meal the calm afternoon
We strolled down half a block on 16th Street
To catch two hours’ worth of Kieślowski’s
Ten Commandments films – “Adultery” and
“Take Ye No False Idols” specifically –
Movies that still make me pause and reflect.
While, a few blocks up, and across the way,
The Gay repertory theater group
Rhinoceros staged incredible feats.
I still remember one production there
Featuring a minor character played
By a retired, career-change porn star,
Who – though featured for the part’s nudity –
Wound up stealing the whole show for his heart,
For when he confessed his love to a guy,
It seemed he wasn’t on a stage at all.
Granted, a Johnny-come-lately actor,
He’s still among the best I’ve ever seen.
But what of the shops that represented
The diverse communities making up
The Valencia Street of my recall?
What of the huge Indian marketplace
Running along the west side of the street?
A step in there, and the senses were met
With turmeric in both hue and fragrance,
And any number of other spices
Were just the same, from cardamon to hing.
Bins full of lentils, some green, some coral,
Awaited scooping and bulk purchases,
While shelves on the walls hosted cooking pots
Of every material, size and shape
A multi-thousand-year cuisine demands.
But for me, the most immediate taste,
Surging through my recollections, comes from
A section of the store set right up front,
For along the windows by the sidewalk,
Ran their ice cream section, and what’s better
On a hot San Francisco day than an
Ice cream cone filled with exotic flavor?
Their rose and orange blossoms tasted subtle;
While jaggery caramel; rajbhog; chai;
Offered bolder tastes of faraway home.
And hardly alone, this store was amongst
Neighbors selling Vietnamese produce,
Middle-East, or Filipino groceries.
But besides all the restaurants and food stores,
Valencia Street was also the king
Of second-hand, antique and thrift retail,
And where I spent most of my first weekends,
Picking up small things that I still treasure.
One came from the two-story shop with books
Tucked beneath the mezzanine in the back.
Here, for a couple of dollars, I found
An AT&T employee cookbook
– Which seems to date to the 1950s –
And exhibits many fine recipes,
Counting one I’ve made over and over
For the best cherry streusel coffeecake
One could perhaps ever hope to be served.
And here as well I found healthy eating’s
“Vital Foods for Total Health, a Cook Book.”
Starting it all in the 1940s,
It was Doctor Jensen’s original
Hidden Valley Ranch health spa near L.A.
That brought what we eat as a means to health
To wider attention, while the retreat’s
Salad dressing is still enjoyed today.
What interesting vegetarian meals
Live ‘tween the covers of this manual:
From soybean loaves, to heavy-cream prune whip,
There’s fare for three hundred sixty-five days
Of feasting both the body and spirit. [iii]
And on the subject of people and books,
I’m relieved the Community Thrift Store,
– With its pair of rainbow-painted arches –
Continues on with its HIV work,
With all proceeds going to the needy.
Undoubtedly, vital Queer books are here,
As often friends and family will donate
A passed Gay person’s effects to this store.
And my archive of LGBT+
History, culture and panache has grown
Over the years from this Thrift’s bookcases:
They’re golden pages passed from hand to hand,
And I’m grateful for all the knowledge learned
From this store’s ever-humbling library.
But thinking of those who have gone before
Puts me in melancholy memory
Of how things have changed, for the antique shops
Have long been replaced by slick retailers
Offering new furniture’s tame design,
Sure to ‘offend’ none of suburban taste,
And free of any of the complex facts
That comes with San Francisco’s history.
And yet, firm in melancholic recall
I know that a certain taqueria
Close to 16th Street is still as it was,
For there, on one of my first weekend nights
After I had moved here, I cruised a boy
Within a big group of his friends, and then,
Later, alone in the restroom could meet
This blond angel face to face. And perhaps,
If I dig long enough through my desk drawer,
I can still produce this restaurant’s napkin
Where the boy had written his phone number.
Though many years have passed, I can still taste
His kiss; I can still feel the excitement
I obviously raised in this young man
Like a blooming plant from the Southland’s heat.
[i] BART: Bay Area Rapid Transit system, providing subway and commuter train service to and from the city.
[ii] Oya is a Japanese travertine, or a highly textured volcanic stone, used here as a stand-in for not only the oya imported and used in San Francisco in the early 20th century, but all stone like it. At one time, it was readily used to construct garden walls in this region.
The term “aesthetic brick walls” means something specific, for during the flourishing of the Arts and Craft movement in San Francisco, aesthetic brick walls – as the foundations of houses or retaining walls on steep hills – involved not only handmade brick with texture or matte glazes, but chunks of sandstone, oya or travertine cut to occupy the space a normal brick would take. These pieces were then randomly interspersed amidst the bricks. As far as I’m aware, the use of this combination of materials to comprise “aesthetic brick” was unique to San Francisco, and can be found nowhere but here.
[iii] Looking through the manual for a good, simple example of original Hidden Valley Ranch fare, I present the following dessert. For we modern cooks, obtaining the main ingredient is not as difficult as it once was. Convenient packs of peeled and cooked chestnuts are available from any Asian or Japanese supermarket, or specialty online retailer.
Chestnut Pudding
While whipping 1 1/2 cups heavy cream to soft peaks, slowly add honey to taste [about 3 tablespoons should do it]. Evenly spread the sweetened whipped cream into the bottom of an attractive, chilled serving dish. Over the top, use a potato ricer to make a fluffy layer of 1 1/2 cups cooked chestnuts [alternately, press the chestnuts through a sieve to “rice” them]. Grate dark chocolate to taste [about one or two ounces] over the chestnut purée, and drizzle lightly with honey before serving.
—Bernard Jensen, 1949
(after Vital Foods for Total Health (Los Angeles 1950), p. 312)
_
- 4
Note: While authors are asked to place warnings on their stories for some moderated content, everyone has different thresholds, and it is your responsibility as a reader to avoid stories or stop reading if something bothers you.
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