First, I must say that I am not a surfer and I have never been in a hurricane. However, I have sailed on windsurfer, in dinghies, on yachts up to 75feet(~20m). I have never been in a green room, but a green wall, is an unwelcomed friend. I have been trashed, in a 25 foot (8m) yacht, and on a windsurfer. That feeling of being with the sea, the companionship of the sea, the need to help even the foolhardy, the hopeless. How adrenaline helps makes the impossible, possible. The relief, that after escaping that reef, the beach is so soft.
I do not know if C James has experienced the above, but this story brings back good and bad memories. A wonderful story, thanks.
Red