Beyond Frontier - 13. BF Chapter 13

About twenty minutes later we had heaps of cold meats, salads, butter, a couple loaves of bread, a 20 pack of 750 ml bottles of water, plus a billy, teabags, Weet-Bix cereal, sugar, UHT milk, cheese, firelighters, steaks and sausages, cooking tools and a set of six camping cutlery, cups, bowls and plates. I also bought a postcard of Tom Price, and wrote Jasper’s name and home address in Jurien Bay, and without writing anything on it I posted it.

I informed my travel mates that I was happy to continue travelling with them, since they no longer owned a vehicle, and that I would pay for all the fuel, which they were pleased to hear. Once we were all stocked up with supplies, we set of for Karijini National Park, which was only an hour away, arriving short after 3pm at the visitor centre. Once we had paid our fees I bought another post card. I gathered information about camping and we set off into the park to explore the famous gorges which were spectacular.

Two hours later, as the sun started to get low in the horizon, we headed back to the camp ground where we found a suitable place to camp. My travel mates had two dome tents, one for the ladies, one for the men, which I was surprised about, as I thought they were two couples, but I later learnt that they were just friends. The campground had shared gas barbeques on site, so once we had set up camp, we began to cook our meat on the barbeque. We had wrapped the meat in cheese and slices of bread, which was delicious.

Once the dishes were washed and put away, I put the billy on for some tea, and we sat around talking with me getting to know my travel mates. I told them very little about myself, just that I was a city boy from Perth, with a science degree, and that I was taking some time off to do some travelling. When I settled into my new swag, I found it to be very comfortable, and I drifted off to sleep very quickly, under the clear outback skies and millions of stars that were shining above.

The next morning, I woke up just after dawn, and after going to the toilet, I had a short walk around the campground to stretch my legs before returning to the vehicle, where my travel mates were starting to wake up. Once we had eaten and packed up, we set off once again, returning to the main road, and continuing east, with our first destination being the Great Northern Highway. It took us about 1 ½ hours to reach, and we stopped at the tourist village there, to stretch our legs and grab a snack.

From there we turned north destined for South Hedland, which was about another three hours’ drive away, with nothing but passing cattle stations and large mines, and lots of very big heavy freight trucks. When we arrived in South Hedland, which is the main residential and business area, we found a nice shaded park, and made some cold meat, cheese and salad sandwiches for our late lunch. Afterwards, I went for a long walk to work off the cramping in my legs, as I was not used to sitting for such long periods in one vehicle. During my walk I found a post box to send my next post card.

When I returned I found my travel mates restocking the two car fridges with more supplies. They also had a cardboard box full of extra items like tomato sauce, packets of biscuits, some oranges, apples, and some cans of soup and tinned tuna. Once this was completed, we sat down to discuss our next destination. Looking at the two maps we had with us we eventually decided on the Eighty Mile Beach caravan park, which was a 2 ½ hour drive away.

It would be a perfect spot to watch the sunset from the beach. Arriving shortly after 4pm, I booked and paid for two camp sites next to each other, with one of them being powered, so I could keep the fridges going all night. Once we had set up the two tents and my swag, which I set up under the side awning, we set off down to the beach. It was spectacular with just miles and miles of endless sand in both directions.

The girls wanted to go swimming, but I suggested that they didn’t because of crocodiles and stinger jellyfish, so they decided to go for a long walk instead. The two guys followed while I elected to stay where I was. I eventually returned to the campsite and lay in my swag and began to read one of my books that I was glad that I brought with me. My travel companions – Anna, Jan, Marcus and Henri returned just before dark and informed me that they had sat on the beach for half an hour watching the amazing sunset.

As we prepared and cooked our dinner, my travel mates announced that they would need to find some work for a few weeks to boost their finances which were getting a little low. Even though they still had the $750 in reserve, they wanted to keep that for emergencies. I suggested that we contact some cattle stations and see if there is any work available, which they thought was a great idea. Heading to the caravan park office, I was able to obtain telephone numbers for a number of cattle stations and roadhouses in the region.

The first was Mandora Station which was only 20 kilometres away, but via station tracks it would take us 45 minutes to reach there. The next was the Roadhouse about 35 kilometres further up the highway. The last contact number I was given was for Anna Plains station, another 2 ½ hours further north-east of our current location. Since Jan was the best with speaking English, I gave her the list and the sat phone to make the calls.

After three calls she had no success, but on the last call she was recommended to call Barn Hill Station where they have beachside tourist accommodation, plus the eco beach resort, a little further up the beach. She was given their contact numbers. There was no luck with the Barn Hill Station, but The Eco Beach Resort was looking for staff, and Jan said that we would be there as soon as possible in the morning, stating that we were currently at Eighty-mile Beach Caravan Park.

After we had eaten and cleaned up, we packed up all the cooking equipment and food supplies, so we could get an early start. I had worked out that it would take us just under three hours to get there, so we planned to leave no later than 6am. Retiring to bed early, I fell asleep very quickly, and the next morning I woke up just as the sun was coming over the horizon, and the birds were starting their morning songs, which I enjoyed.

Using the nearby gas BBQ, I heated up some water for cups of tea, while packing up my swag and the awning. The tea was ready when the others finally woke up, and once they had warmed up a little, they packed up their luggage and tents, and we set off back to the highway towards the Ramada Eco Beach Resort, which is 120 kilometres south of Broome.

When we arrived just before 9am, we were all quite surprised at the size of the place. It was absolutely huge. I parked the vehicle at the front of the reception building and let my travel companions lead the way. They eventually found the reception desk. Hanging back a little, I watched as Anna, Jan, Marcus and Henri were interviewed together by a lady I presumed to be the manager. “What about you, young man? What are your skills?” the lady asked loud enough to catch my attention.

“I’m sorry, I am not in need of employment. I have enough finances to get by thank you very much,” I replied, as I walked closer to the group.

“I didn’t ask you about your finances. I asked you what your skills are,” the lady repeated to me.

“Well, Ma’am, I am sort of multi skilled, but I have a degree in marine science,” I replied, deciding not to reveal the rest of my qualifications and that I also own two yachts and a research vessel.

“Perfect. You are also hired. Now all of you follow me, and I will issue you all uniforms,” the lady announced. We obeyed and followed, with me trailing behind, regretting opening my big mouth.

“Right, Jan and Anna, I would like you to start in the restaurant. Breakfast is nearly over, so the restaurant manager will show you everything before lunch service begins. Marcus and Henri, is it? Yes, I will get you boys working at the bar. We have staff accommodation for you about a kilometre away from the main resort. Your supervisors will show you later once lunch service is over. Now you, young man, follow me as we have just the right job for you,” the lady said with a smile, and leaving the others behind, we went through a few passageways, before arriving in a large office, where I was directed to sit.

“Now if I am not mistaken, you are the famous Anton Hamilton, is that correct?” the lady said, and I let out a loud groan, and stood up. “Sit down,” the manager snapped, and I did as she ordered.

“I am Veronica Pearce, general manager by the way. So, what brings a smart young man like you all the way out to the Kimberly outback?” Ms Pearce asked me.

“Well, Ma’am, to put it politely, it is none of your business. I only came here to allow my travel companions an opportunity to earn some much needed income, so they can continue their travels. I am in no need of such income boost, so you can forget about hiring me, because I am not interested,” I replied, and I stood up, dropped the uniform on the chair and walked out of the office.

After a few failed attempts I found my way back to the reception area and back to my vehicle and drove off in another direction than the one I came. I soon came across the staff accommodation area where I pulled out the awning, and sitting on the ground I began to read my book. I was soon interrupted by the arrival of a vehicle.

“I have never been told so politely to rack off as you have just done, as most people find me very intimidating,” Ms Pearce said to me as soon as she stepped out of her vehicle. I was about to stand up, when she motioned for me to stay. “Just let me say this, then I will leave you alone. With your training, and experience … and, yes, I do know you do have experience, as Dr Carrington is a family friend of mine.

We have a flat-back turtle monitoring programme here, which would be perfect for you. Maybe you can develop a training programme for staff to do tours. We only have visiting scientists here, when the turtles come onto the beach to lay their eggs, and again when the eggs hatch. I would be very grateful if you could stay a little while and help us out a bit. I will let you think about it, and you can get back to me tomorrow morning. Enjoy the rest of your day,” Ms Pearce said, and she returned to her vehicle and drove off, not letting me reply.

Knowing that I would be staying there for a while, I went for a walk and found a decent sized shady tree on the other side of the shed. Returning to my vehicle I relocated it to under that tree, so that the open awning was nearly fully in shade. Once I had done this, I set up my swag between the vehicle and the tree trunk, once I had cleared away a few sticks and stones from the area.

When I was happy with my camping site, I lay on my swag and continued to read my book, stopping once to retrieve a cold drink and an apple to snack on. About two hours later, I heard a buggy approaching. It stopped somewhere near the front of the shed, and I ignored it and kept reading.

“There you are, Anton Hamilton. I am Jacob Owens, hospitality manager of the resort. Veronica sent me to make sure that you get settled into some staff accommodation,” a man said as he appeared, making me jump with fright a little.

“I am fine right here, thank you, but if I could have power for my spare battery that runs my fridge, and lights I would be grateful,” I replied in a neutral tone.

“That is no problem at all. Do you have an extension cord, or would you like me to grab one from the staff rec shed?” Jacob replied still in a cheerful mood.

“I have one. Just show me where to connect it, and I will sort it out,” I replied as I stood up and followed him. Once he had returned to the resort, I connected the power to my car, and returned to reading my book.

Half an hour later, I put the book to one side and I went to explore the staff area, where I found 4 cabins, but I didn’t enter any of them. Next I checked the staff recreation shed, which contained a pool table, table tennis, dart boards, and even a large screen television. On a back wall there was a long kitchen bench with sink, cooking stove and cupboards, and two large fridges in the corner. Just before that were two dining tables able to seat 24 people.

Stepping outside again, I noticed the other smaller shed, which I discovered was the showers and toilets for the staff, with some large water tanks standing beside the building. Happy that I had found everything that I needed to, I returned to my vehicle, and made myself a couple of sandwiches, then returned to my swag to read my book. When I heard another buggy approaching, I put the book down and stood up.

Locating my dish washing bowl, I put some water in it and rinsed the plate, putting it to one side to dry off. Next, I opened the side flap of the canopy and rolled it up, so I could get easier access to the supplies and the fridge. Just as I finished doing this my travel companions appeared, and they began to explain what work they were doing.

They asked me why didn’t I move into one of the cabins, and I informed them that I was happy camping in my swag beside the vehicle. Marcus, Henri, Anna and Jan retrieved all of their luggage and took it over to the cabins, so as to get settled in before they needed to head back to the resort to prepare for dinner service.

Once they had gone, I retrieved the Outback Road map and started to study it in more detail. I soon made the decision that I would leave in the morning to continue exploring on my own, with my first destination Halls Creek, 750 km’s away and one of the hottest towns in Western Australia, when it can often get to over 45 degrees in the shade during the summer.

From there, after an overnight stop, and once I have stocked up on plenty of food and water, plus topped up the fuel, I would turn onto the Duncan Highway heading east into the Tanami Desert, for the 7-hour journey to the WA and NT border.

By that stage I will have turned onto the Buntine Highway, and like the Duncan Highway, and many others in the outback, they are just very rough dirt roads. At a distance of just under 200 kilometres, it will take about the same amount of time that it takes me from the Eco resort to Halls Creek, especially when I will need to avoid a lot of the wildlife, namely camels, emus, big red kangaroos, goats and wild horses.

Once in the Northern Territory, with a second overnight stop, my next destination will be Kalkarinji, a small Aboriginal community, in the middle of nowhere, and 225 km’s east of the border, where I will need to top up the fuel, before continuing on to Top springs, another rough ride that will take about 3 hours. This is where the Buntine and Buchanan highways cross over. Now with part of my journey planned, I set to work to prepare some dinner and to make sure that I kept out the crockery and cutlery, plus the billy for my 4 German friends, which I placed in the box that had the cans of soup and tuna and two loafs of bread in them, for them to keep.

I also checked that there was nothing belonging to them left in my vehicle, so I was ready to leave first thing in the morning. Once I had cleaned up, I read my book some more, till I heard chatter in German coming from the distance, and I headed to the Staff rec shed to talk to them, and hand them the box of food and equipment. I asked them if it was ok if I continued on with my journey since they would be staying for a few weeks, and they were said they would be sad to see me go.